Blogs

When should you get an inspection?

Most home inspections are done when a purchaser is purchasing a home from a previous owner.  There are many other times you may want to get a home inspected.

• Are you building a home?  Most builders are very good, however even the best builder can make mistakes.  They use many trades.  A third party inspection will document any deficiencies so you have a record to refer back to as these deficiencies are completed.
• Is your warranty almost up?  An inspector will see problems that a home owner may not.
• Have you been living in your home for a number of years?  It may be time to do some upgrades.  An inspector can let you know what systems in your house may be in need of attention so you can plan for future repairs.
• Have you had a leak or a flood? Does anyone in your home suffer from Asthma or other respiratory problems?  Is your house damp and musty smelling?  These are reasons to suspect mold in your home.  We can inspect for that as well.

The level of humidity in your home will affect your health as well as the health of your home.  If you have asthma, allergies or have had respiratory infections, humidity that has been very high or very low is a contributing factor.  These factors will also have an impact on the condition of your home.

Humans are most comfortable and healthiest in an environment where the humidity is maintained at a level around 40% (Every home should have a hygrometer).

When levels drop below 20% humidity, it means the air is very dry.  There is an increased level of dust and allergens in the air, our skin becomes dry and you begin to get a lot of static in the air.  Dragging your feet on the carpet is sure to give someone a shock.  This is also hard on your home.  Wood starts to dry out, hardwood floors creek and wood in expensive cabinets and furniture starts to shrink.

When levels climb above 60% humidity, it means the air is very damp.  Humidity above 60% is ideal for the growth of mold which will start to grow within 48 hours.  Mold will irritate health concerns such as asthma, allergies and respiratory infections.  Mold will also deteriorate wood and over time weaken the structure of a home.

In today’s modern home a lot has been done to improve insulation and energy efficiency.  High efficiency furnaces, hot water heaters and fireplaces combined with new windows and doors built to seal up a house, means very little fresh air gets in.  During the winter (and summer if you have central air conditioning), you trap the air inside the home.  In our daily activities, bathing, cooking and even breathing you introduce humidity into your home.  Consider how much humidity you introduce into your home during that big family Christmas dinner.

If you notice your homes humidity above 50% (remember every home should have a hygrometer) it is time to take action!  Newer homes have a built in whole house ventilation system.  In this case turning it on will remove some of that humidity.  If you don’t have that luxury, running your kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans will help remove the stale damp air.  Both of these solutions work very well in the cooler winter months.   During a damp summer the outside air can be even more humid than the inside air.  Ventilation alone may not help, consider getting a dehumidifier for the house.  A dehumidifier removes moisture from the air eliminating the possibility of mold growing in your home.

When you notice the humidity is below 30% it is time to take action.  Most homes are built with a central humidifier on the furnace.  If you have one make sure it is clean and functioning properly.  This however, is not my favorite way to add humidity to a home (see my blog on humidifiers for more information).  Run portable humidifiers, in most cases one console unit is enough but smaller units can be used to humidify isolated areas.  You can also run those bathroom fans for a shorter period of time after a bath or shower.  In this case putting moisture back into the air is good for your health and your home.

Winter creates another challenge with humidity.  When temperatures become very cold (in Alberta it is not uncommon to have temperatures below -30c) to much humidity in these conditions can create moisture problems which includes condensation and frost on your windows, condensation and mold on your exterior walls and frost build up in your attic.  When you hear extreme cold weather is on its way turn your humidity settings down.  20% or lower may be necessary to prevent the build up of condensation and frost.  Prior to a cold snap it is also a great idea to check all your exterior windows and doors to ensure they are properly sealed, fix weather stripping as required.   Also check all your exterior intake vents for blockage and clean as if needed.  Your Furnace and HRV if your house has one needs to get fresh air from outside.  If you have an HVR check the filters and clean as required.

I was recently called out to do a mold investigation at a home.  The homeowner was sick and had to move out of the home.  The homeowner knew the home had humidity levels of above 80% for most of the summer but unfortunately did not know the effects the humidity was having on their health and their home, so they did not take action.  They would clean the mold off the walls and  hard surfaces when it became visible and when the humidity dropped, the mold became dormant and stopped appearing on the walls.  The mold is in the carpets, the curtains and furniture waiting for any amount of moisture to start growing again.  Shortly after the investigation a family member accidently overflowed the tub in the bathroom soaking part of the carpet.  Even after attempting to dry the carpet, the mold was visibly growing on the walls in the bathroom within hours of the spill.

A little education could have prevented a lot of heart ache for this homeowner, which is why I am sharing this information with you today.  If you think your home may be making you or a loved one sick, give me a call.  I may not find any problems and you will have peace of mind.  If I do find something that needs attention, your family’s health will benefit from taking action on the problems I may find

When fall arrives it is time to start to prepare your home for the winter months.  Committing a few hours on a Saturday afternoon will reduce the risk of costly repairs in the future.  Here are some tips to help you.

1. Test your heating system, I recommend a gas furnace be service every two years by a qualified technician.  Atco gas will also come out at a homeowners request and inspect all gas lines and gas appliances and no cost to the home owner.
2. Check, clean or replace your furnace filter.  If you have a newer style 4 or 5 inch filter it is designed to last for one year.  Replacing it before the heating season means it will be most efficient through winter.  Using a sharpie write the month and year you are replacing the filter so you can replace it the same time next year. If you have a 1 inch filter you should replace this every 1-3 months during the heating season, this will optimize air flow throughout your home and reduce heating bills.
3. If your house is equipped with an HRV clean those filters and clean your fresh and combustion air intake screens outside.  The HRV is designed to manage your homes humidity through the winter.  When we get extreme cold in the winter condensation and ice can form on your windows.  This is a indication your indoor air has to much humidity  Set you settings on the HRV to 30-35% humidity until the cold passes.
4. If your house is equiped with a whole house ventilation switch this is the time to test it.  (often located near the thermostat or in the wall and labelad) turn it on when you see signs of condensation.  This switch turns on the furnace fan to draw fresh air into the house and a bathroom fan on to remove stale humid air from the house.  This system does help removing oders if you have been cooking spicy food and cooling your house down in the evenings on a hot day.
5. Cover your air conditioner unit outside if it is mounted off the ground on the side of your house.  If your AC is sitting on the ground covering it may not be a best practice, mice and other rodents are looking for a place to get out of the elements and may nest under that cover.  At the end of the day your AC unit outside is weatherproof.
6. Have your ducts cleaned.  I recommend you do this every 2 to 3 years, again it increases air flow and reduces energy costs.
7. Clean your humidifier, it has been sitting idle for the past several months and likely has a build up of scale.  Consider removing your furnace humidifier and replacing it with a portable unit.  This can add years to the life of your furnace, and help improve your indoor air quality. 
8. Check your sump pit and drain line to ensure proper operation.  If you have a long drain line outside replace it for with a shorter drain for the winter to prevent water freezing in the low spots.
9. Check all your doors and windows to ensure they are closing and sealing properly, air leaks can make a home very drafty in the winter and increase heating costs.
10. Check the garage door and the man door to the house.  Lubricate all the hinges and test the door closer on the overhead door.  Check the weather stripping and door closer on the man door to ensure exhaust gases do not enter the home’s living spaces.
11. Replace the batteries in your smoke detectors and test them with smoke. 
12. Clean your eaves troughs and check your downspouts the spring thaw will require these are directing water away from your home.
13. Ensure the ground slopes away from the house so water does not end up in your basement.
14. Check your fireplace chimney for obstructions such as nests.  Have the chimney cleaned if you have not done so in the past 2 years. Gas fireplace flues offer a great place for birds to nest, check that area as well.
15. If your house is equiped with frost free hose bibs disconnect the garden hose, you are ready for winter.  If you have have an older home (built prior to 2000) you will have to shut off the valve in the basement.
16. Winterize your exterior, store your outdoor furniture, prepare gardens and protect young trees or perennials if they are not very hardy.  This is also a good time to do some maintenance on you snow blower if you have one, you don’t want to be caught with a broken snow blower after that first snow storm.

As always feel free to reach out if you have questions.

Most homes have a Humidifier built onto the side of the furnace.  Recently there is new information that this type of humidifier is affecting both Air Quality and Furnace Life.

Furnace mounted Humidifiers put moisture directly into your heating ducts. This moisture needs to be much higher in the ducts in order to control the humidity in your home.

Moisture in the ducts, combined with dust and heat, promotes mold growth.  Once you have mold in your ducts, that mold is being blown around your home every time your furnace turns on.

This same moisture is also blowing across the Heat Exchanger in your furnace.  This promotes rust and will shorten the life of the heat exchanger.

Adding humidity to your home during the cold winter months, prevents dry skin and shocks and helps us feel more comfortable.  Wood flooring and furniture also benefit from having the right level of humidity during the winter (35% to 40%).  I recommend you purchase a console humidifier and place it in a central location on the main floor of your home.  These units require filling with water on a regular basis so it will be top of mind and you are more likely to take the proper steps to maintain this type of humidifier.  For more information follow this link to learn some tips on how to manage your humidity. http://jbrinspections.com/?p=79

I recently came across an article that explains the dangers in greater detail:

Central Humidifier Dangers

Humidifiers can cause various diseases. The young, elderly and infirm may be particularly at risk to contamination from airborne pollutants such as bacteria and fungi. These can grow in humidifiers and get into the air by way of the vapor where it can be breathed in. Some of the more common diseases and pathogens transmitted by humidifiers are:

Legionnaires’ disease. Health problems caused by this disease range from flu-like symptoms to serious infections. This problem is generally more prevalent with portable humidifiers because they draw standing water from a tank in which bacteria and fungi can grow;

Thermophilic actinomycetes. These bacteria thrive at temperatures of 113° to 140° F and can cause hypersensitivity pneumonitis, which is an inflammation of the lungs; and

“Humidifier fever,” which is a mysterious and short-lived, flu-like illness marked by fever, headache, chills and malaise, but without prominent pulmonary symptoms. It normally subsides within 24 hours without residual effects.

Other problems associated with humidifiers include:

Accumulation of white dust from minerals in the water.   These minerals may be released in the mist from the humidifier and settle as fine white dust that may be small enough to enter the lungs. The health effects of this dust depend on the types and amounts of dissolved minerals. It is unclear whether these minerals cause any serious health problems;

Moisture damage due to condensation. Condensed water from over-humidified air will appear on the interior surfaces of windows and other relatively cool surfaces. Excessive moisture on windows can damage windowpanes and walls, but a more serious issue is caused when moisture collects on the inner surfaces of exterior walls. Moisture there      can ruin insulation and rot the wall, and cause peeling, cracking or blistering of the paint; and accumulation of mold.  This organic substance grows readily in moist environments, such as a home moistened by an over-worked humidifier. Mold can be hazardous to people with compromised immune systems.

This article makes a reference to portable humidifiers being a concern.  Like anything maintenance is the key.  Cleaning your humidifier on a frequent basis is a critical step.

Inspecting your home on a regular basis and following good maintenance practices is the best way to protect the investment you have in your home.  Here are some tips to maintain your home through the summer.

• Check your roof, using binoculars look for missing worn or curling shingles, damage to flashing around penetrations or a sag in the roof.  If you find these conditions consult a roofer.
• Check all the exterior wood and repaint as required include your doors, windows, deck and fence.
• Trim back any trees or shrubs that are approaching the home or its overhead electrical services
• In the basement check the floor drains for water in the trap and poor a bucket of water down them to keep the traps fresh, test your sump and check all water pipes for condensation or leaks
• Monitor your basement humidity and avoid humidity over 60%. Use a dehumidifier if necessary
• Clean or replace your furnace filter
• Inspect your doors and windows for proper operation of all looks and latches. Lubricate  and tighten the hinges on all your doors
• Vacuum your clothes dryer hood vent outside
• Clean your bathroom fan grills
• Check your exterior railings and guards and repair as required
• Check and repair loose or damage weatherstripping around windows and doorways
• Repair driveways and walkways as needed
• Test all your GFCI’s
• Ensure your furnace room is kept free of clutter and debris
• Inspect and lubricate your garage door, and door opener. Test those safety eyes

The way a house “sheds” water is the key to moisture control inside your home.  I was called out to many homes this summer due to flooding basements to help find the source of the water or to investigate for mold due to the water.  In most cases the water problem was easily preventable.

During the fall and winter months, water is rarely an issue due to the lack of rain and the frozen snow.  Many people forget to take the steps to get there home ready for the spring thaw and the rain that is very common in spring and early summer.  A little work can prevent serious problems later.

Eaves troughs and downspouts are a key component to preventing water in the basement.  Fall is a time when the leaves come off the trees and can easily clog downspouts and eaves troughs.  Clean them out so you are ready or the spring thaw.  Make sure your downspouts are extended away from the house and are attached.  A loose downspout can get kicked off by the mailman or paperboy and go through the winter undetected. This will create all kinds of problems in the spring.

Take a look at your grading.  I have seen many water issues simply because the slope of the ground lets water flow towards a house.  Over time the dirt around the foundation settles so what was a good grade a few years ago may be poor grade today.  Take the time to walk around  your home and correct the grade if required.

Lastly take a look at all components of you sump pump if your house has a one.  Open the cover in the basement and lift the float to activate the pump.  This tests both the float and the pump.  I do recommend a sump pit alarm as a sump pump can fail at any time so an alarm will alert you of a failure before its is two late.  Look for how your sump pump discharges outside your home.  A sump hose should extend 6 feet from the property and should have a downward slope.  I often find long hoses attached to a sump extending the discharge to the end of a property, many times with high and low spots.  In the winter this hose can freeze and the water will not be pumped from the house.  You sump will run continuously and is likely to burnout.

Use these tips wisely and your are not likely to see any water in your basement next year!

Home Fire Escape Planning

A fire can spread rapidly through your home, leaving you as little as three minutes to escape safely. Your ability to get out depends on advance warning from smoke alarms and advance planning – a home fire escape plan that everyone in your home is familiar with and has practiced. These tips can help you put together and practice an effective home fire escape plan.

Fire Facts

• Most fire deaths in Alberta happen in homes, especially at night when people are asleep. People, who die in home fires, often die from breathing the smoke and toxic gases from the fire—not from being burned by flames. These toxic gases can render a person confused and disoriented or even unconscious after only a few short breaths. The effects may overcome you long before you have time to orient yourself to get out of your own home. If you plan and practice your escape drill, you will know exactly what to do, almost automatically, to quickly and safely get out from a burning house.

• Once a fire starts it can spread rapidly. In as little as three minutes, a small fire can erupt into a “flashover” (when a room gets so hot everything suddenly bursts into flames). Three minutes isn’t a lot of time to notice the fire danger, round up your family, identify a safe escape route, and escape from your home. Seconds count in a fire emergency.

Safety Tips

Plan Your Escape

• Have at least one smoke alarm on every level of your home and test your alarm(s) monthly to make sure they are in working condition to warn you of a fire.

• Involve the whole household in drawing a simple floor plan of your home, marking exactly how to get out in a fire emergency.

• Identify two exits from each room, particularly bedrooms that you can use to escape. Planning two escape routes could save your life if one exit is blocked by smoke or fire.

• Establish a safe meeting place outside of the home.

• Assign a designated helper for any person living in your home who may not be able to escape the fire emergency on his or her own. This may include young children, older people, or people with impairments due to mobility limitations, disabilities, medications, or alcohol.

• Ensure your street number is clearly visible from the road so that responding emergency personnel can find your home.

• Inform guests and visitors about your home escape plan and find out about others escape plans when you stay overnight in their homes.

Practice Your Escape Plan

• Practice your home fire escape plan at least twice a year with everyone living in your home.

• Make the drill as realistic as possible. Sound the smoke alarm, and practice different scenarios and escape routes. Practice your escape using the escape tips identified below.

• Most fire emergencies happen at night. Ensure you practice at night while everyone is asleep.

Home Fire Escape Planning How to Escape

Get low and go under smoke. All household members should learn how to “get low and go” under the layer of smoke hanging under the ceiling during a fire emergency. In a fire, the air closer to the floor will be relatively free of toxic smoke and gases and will easier to breathe.

Check the door with your hand. If the door is hot, fire could already be burning through! That’s when you’ll use your alternate exit. If the door is cool it may be safe. Brace your shoulder against it, turn your face away and open it a crack to check. If there is any smoke or heat, slam the door shut and head for an alternate exit.

Make sure everyone knows how to open the windows in your home. In most cases, a window will be your best alternate exit. If you have to smash it to get out – do it. Place a blanket or pillow on the windowsill to protect yourself from broken glass. If the bedroom windows are high above the ground, consider getting fire ladders, and practice so everyone knows how to use them.

Close doors behind you. A closed door can hold back toxic smoke and flames in an emergency and could give you a few lifesaving seconds to escape.

Get out, stay out. Decide on a meeting place outside so everyone can be accounted for. Designate one person to find a phone away from the home, and call the fire department. Do not go back inside the house until the fire department says it is okay to do so.

If you are trapped, protect yourself until help arrives. If you can’t leave the building because smoke or fire is blocking your exits, call the fire department to report your exact location and gather in a room with a window to await firefighters’ arrival. Close all doors between you and the fire. Stuff air vents and cracks with duct tape, wet blankets, towels or clothing. Then, carefully open a window at the top or bottom, if possible, to let fresh in. Don’t break the window – if smoke enters the room from outside the building, you won’t be able to protect yourself. Wave a flashlight or a light colored cloth at the window to let the fire department know where you are.

Talk to your fire department. Your local fire prevention officer can help you plan and practice your escape plan and help determine and overcome any limiting factors or challenges.

Home Fire Escape Planning

• Always test smoke detectors with smoke. The only thing you learn by pushing the button is that you have power, smoke tells you they work.  If your smoke detector is more than 10 years old replace it!

• If any one in the home can’t hear the smoke alarm, consider installing an alarm that uses a flashing light, vibration, or higher decibel sound to alert you to a fire emergency.

• Never use the elevator in a fire emergency.

• Incorporate special needs into the fire escape plan, such as assigning a designated helper.

• If you can’t leave the building, follow the guidelines outlined above for trapped occupants.

Draw your Plan

There are times when a homeowner could benefit from the knowledge of a home inspector but not have the need for a full property inspection.  I have been working on addressing this and developed a home “check up”

A home  “check up”  is a limited inspection ideal for a home owner wanting to plan for future expenses and address issues that could create large repairs in the future. The check up will report on the condition of all the major components of your home, including the roof, drainage, furnace, hot water heater, electrical components, plumbing and attic.  What I don’t inspect during a check up are all the little things like windows, doors, cabinets etc.  You live in the home, you don’t need me to tell you the door knob is loose.

Benefits of a check-up:

• Plan for future expenses
• Save energy
• Eliminate surprise repairs
• Minimize damages from water
• Prevent damages from severe weather
• Maintain a safe home
• Maintain the value of your home

A check up is also a great value to you if you are selling a home.  If there are major concerns identified in the check up the seller has the opportunity to make repairs, or disclose this information as part of the sale.  This will eliminating renegotiating after the buyer completes their inspection.

In many ways a check up on your home is like going to the doctor, the difference is I do house calls.

The “Check up” just $179.00

**The “Check up” is not an alternative for a the pre-purchase inspection.  When you are purchasing a home a full (essential) home inspection is the recommended service

Inspecting your home on a regular basis and following good maintenance practices is the best way to protect your investment in your home.  Spring is here and an important season regarding home maintenance.  Winter is harsh and can cause damage to your home and there are things to get ready for so you can enjoy your summer.

Here are some thought starters:

• Check your eavestroughs and Downspouts for loose joints and secure as attachment to your home, clear any obstructions and ensure water is flowing away from your foundation.
• Check your sump pump.  It will work very hard during the spring thaw.  Is it operating properly?  Clear any obstructions from the discharge pipe and make sure it allows water to drain away from the foundation?
• Examine your foundation wall for signs of cracks, leaks or moisture and repair as necessary.
• Assess all painted wood surfaces (window and door frames, wood siding, accent trim, decks and fences) make a plan paint surfaces as required in the summer when the temperature is warmer during the over night period.
• Inspect all railings and stairs for safety.
• Using binoculars inspect the roof for missing or curled shingles, damaged air vents and anything that seems unusual, consult a roofer if you observe damage.
• Check all the places air enters or exhausts from the home.  Are the grates clean, do the exhaust vents have functioning flappers.  Check the dryer vent for lint.  Vacuum all your bathroom exhaust fan grates and since you have the vacuum out do the same for your smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors
• Test your smoke detectors with smoke (light a candle and blow it out close to your smoke detector)
• In mid April it is time to clean your humidifiers and put them away for the season.  If you use a de-humidifier in the summer, clean it, set it up and test it.
• Clean or replace your furnace filter.
• If your house is equipped with air conditioning, uncover the compressor unit, inspect the insulation on the lines and clean debris from the condenser. Check the breaker and turn it on, consider having your air conditioner serviced (recommended every 2-3 years).  Do not test the unit until the temperature exceeds 15 degrees Celsius.
• Have fireplace and wood stove chimney’s cleaned.
• Turn off pilot lights on anything you may not use for the summer, like a garage furnace.
• Check all your window screens and hardware.  Replace storm window with screens if you have an older home, clean all the window tracks for smooth operation this summer.
• Open your outside hose bib once all danger of frost is gone.
• Maintain your landscape.  Check for any grading issues and correct as needed.  Cut back tree branches that are close to or overhanging the house.

Have a great spring!

I often see dangerous things when I inspect a home.  I suggest it is a great idea to review your homes safety at least once a year, late august is a good time just before the kids head off to school, Let me give you some things to help get you started on checking your home for safety.

• Consider upgrading your smoke and CO detectors to todays building codes.  Today if you are building a home a smoke detector is required in every bedroom and a smoke/CO detector is required in every hallway within 5 meters of a bedroom.  They should be interconnected.  Both smoke and CO detectors are available as hard wired and battery operated variations so you don't need an electrician to run wires to locartions you currently do not have smoke/CO detectors.
• Do you have accessible working fire extinguishers in your kitchen, garage and mechanical room.  Fire extinguishers need to be maintained, recharged or replaced over time.  Take a minute and inspect your fire extinguishers and check the dates.
• Check your egress escape routes.  Basement windows should open easily from inside and if there are security bars they should have quick release latch (No Locks).  Are the windows free of  debris and have a clear path to take you away from the house.  Don’t forget the upstairs bedroom windows.  They are also a point of egress and the same rules apply.  Is there a safe way to climb down from an upstairs window if needed?
• Are your railings tight and secure?  Check them all.  Basement stair railings are often removed for moving in furniture or during a remodel and not replaced.  Wooden deck railings loosen over time.  Do a general inspection of all the other guards and railings of the home.  Include any baby gates if you are using them, they loosen up over time as well.
• Does your home leak?  Water inside a home will enable mold to grow putting unhealthy mold spores and toxins in the air.  Check under all your sinks for signs on water and run the taps while feeling around under the sink for moisture.  If you find anything fix it immediately.  Check your ceilings for water stains which would indicate a roof leak or plumbing leak. Check all levels, a toilet leak on the top floor may first be detected in the ceiling below it.
• Is the area around you furnace and hot water heater clean and clutter free?  A small mechanical room should never be used for storage.  Make sure you have easy access to access panels on the furnace and hot water heater as well as the emergency shut off for both these units.  If your not sure where to find these shut offs nows the time to look around and find them and consider labelling them for easy detection in the future.  This is also a good time to do the same for the main water shut off valve.
• Check for basic electrical issues.  Do all your plugs and switches have proper cover plates?  Do any of your electrical appliances have frayed cords?  These items should be repaired right away.  Make sure your main electrical panel is accessible.  You should not store anything directly in front of the electrical panel.
• Are you storing any paints, solvents or cleaners in the house?  Are they out of reach children?  Are paints and solvents stored in a well ventilated area away from living spaces, or any source of heat?
• Check the blinds aroung the home.  Do they meet the new corded window coverings guidlines? Chech out the guidelines here.

Feel free to contact me for your home inspection needs.  I offer home inspections, thermal imaging, mold inspections and energy audits.  Let me know how I can help you.

Winter is a quite time and your home requires very little maintenance, however there is always a few things to do.  Here are some tips.

• Your furnace is running a lot these days so the filter gets dirty quickly.  Clean or replace it monthly, this helps the furnace circulate warm air throughout your home and saves you valuable energy dollars.
• Drain a bucket or two of water from the clean out valve at the bottom of your hot water tank, you may have to consult your owners manual.  This will control sediment and maintain efficiency, saving you more energy dollars.
• Clean your humidifier two or three times during the winter and monitor your moisture levels.  You can find more information about humidity on my website by following this link   http://jbrinspections.com/?p=79
• Vacuum your bathroom fan grills.
• Vacuum radiator grills on the back of refrigerators and freezers and the drip trays.
• Vacuum your smoke detectors, dust and spider webs can prevent them from functioning.  Test them with smoke.
• Check your fire extinguishers and recharge them if necessary
• Check fire escape routes and egress points, are your basement windows free of snow buildup?   This is also a good time to review your home for fire prevention.  This is a good resource http://www.cmhc.ca/en/ab/cayoho/cayoho_003.cfm
• Poor some water down your floor drain to keep the trap full and run the water on any seldom used sinks or tubs.
• Examine doors and windows for ice build up or cold air leaks.  Make a note to repair any concerns in the spring.
• Check for ice damming and look in the attic for frost build up.  If you find these conditions occurring this is an indication of poor ventilation or poor insulation.  CMHC has a great resource about identifying and preventing ice dams. http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/co/grho/moaiprre/moaiprre_009.cfm
• Check your plugs and outlets for wear.  Inspect your power cords.  If they are wearing out replace them immediately.

Taking care of these items on a regular basis keeps you safe, increases the life of your home’s components and ultimately saves you money!  Do you want to save more money in the future while making your home more comfortable to live in?  Call us to complete a thorough energy audit in your home and we can help you make a plan to improve your homes energy efficiency.

Most people don’t know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, we want to change that. Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves.

Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:

• It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient.
• It increases indoor comfort levels.
• It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming.
• It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.

1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house. 

As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:

• Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy.
• Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters.
• Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70°F (25° C to 21°C), for example, saves about 10% on heating costs.
• Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs.
• Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces.
• At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room.

2. Install a tankless water heater.

Demand water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don’t produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Demand water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. Therefore, they avoid the standby heat losses required by traditional storage water heaters. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. Either a gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don’t need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water.

3. Replace incandescent lights.

The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFL), can reduce energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

• CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.
• LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy.
• LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.

4. Seal and insulate your home.

Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy efficient -– and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An energy auditor can be hired to assess envelope leakage and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings, give us a call to arrange in inspection.

The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

• electrical outlets;
• mail slots;
• around pipes and wires;
• wall- or window-mounted air conditioners;
• attic hatches;
• fireplace dampers;
• weatherstripping around doors;
• baseboards;
• window frames; and
• switch plates.

5. Install efficient shower heads and toilets.

The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:

• low-flow shower heads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up;
• low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of two gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have “1.6 GPF” marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank;
• dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years, and are now gaining in popularity in North America. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.

Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:

• Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.
• Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption.
• Use efficient “Energy Star”-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the DOE and the EPA’s Energy Star Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees.
• Chargers, such as those for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged.
• Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.

7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.

Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home’s interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches:

• skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks;
• lightshelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;
• clerestory windows.  Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and
• light tubes.  Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.

8. Insulate windows and doors.

About one-third of the home’s total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors:

• Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option.
• Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, weatherstrip around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren’t already in place.
• Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window.
• If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don’t work, they should be repaired or replaced.

9. Cook smart.

An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking:

• Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens.
• Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens.
• Pans should be placed on the correctly-sized heating element or flame.
• Lids make food heat more quickly than pans that do not have lids.
• Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically.
• When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster.

10. Change the way you wash your clothes.

• Do not use the “half load” setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the “half load” setting saves less than half of the water and energy.
• Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not that dirty. Water that is 140 degrees uses far more energy than 103 degrees for a “warm” setting, but 140 degrees isn’t that much better for washing purposes.
• Clean the lint trap before you use the dryer, every time. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry.
• If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks.
• Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer.

Homeowners who take the initiative to make these changes usually discover that the energy savings are more than worth the effortHomeowners who take the initiative to make these changes usually discover that the energy savings are more than worth the effort

One of the most common things I find when inspecting a home is the proper use and maintenance of the gutters and downspouts.  These systems are designed to keep water away from the foundation of your home.  By extending the downspouts 6 feet or more away from your home you prevent water from saturating the soil next to the foundation.   Water next to the foundation will expand and contract during the freeze and thaw cycles of winter, putting undue stress on the foundation of your home.  A damaged foundation is one of the most expensive repairs you will encounter on a home.   Given the relatively low cost of replacing and maintaining your gutters and downspouts I am surprised how many home owners neglect this key component of their home.

One other point I would like to make, most modern homes have downspouts that easily lift up out of the way and lock in place.  This feature should be used only to move the downspouts out of the way to do lawn or yard maintenance.  Once you have completed the tasks at hand, replace the downspouts in the down position ready to do their job during the next rain storm.  I have yet to meet someone who runs outside at the first sign of rain to “put down” the downspouts.